Sant Cebrià de Lledó – Els Metges (Gavarres).
A hidden corner of Les Gavarres where history, nature and gastronomy come together
There are places that do not appear on the usual tourist routes.
Places you have to reach slowly, through forests and old country tracks, only to discover that true luxury is sometimes found in what still preserves its authenticity.
Sant Cebrià de Lledó, popularly known as Els Metges, is one of those places.
Hidden in the heart of the Les Gavarres massif, this small rural settlement in the Baix Empordà preserves a medieval church, an old farmhouse, forest tracks, Mediterranean woodland and beautiful views across the surrounding countryside.
Here, time seems to move differently.
There are no great crowds.
No busy avenues.
Only forest, stone, wind, silence and memory.
And that is precisely why reaching Els Metges becomes part of the experience.
A History Born Among the Forests
An old rural settlement of the Empordà
Sant Cebrià de Lledó was historically a small rural community made up of scattered farmhouses, connected with agriculture, livestock and the use of forest resources.
The church is documented from the medieval period, and its territory once included numerous rural homes spread across the mountains of Les Gavarres.
Over the centuries, many of these farmhouses were abandoned and the settlement gradually lost much of its population.
Today, that history remains visible in the landscape.
Old houses.
Stone walls.
Country paths.
Forests reclaiming former cultivated land.
And a small church that continues to stand as the spiritual and symbolic heart of the place.
Why Is It Called Els Metges?
Saints Cosmas and Damian, the physician saints
Although its official name is Sant Cebrià de Lledó, almost everyone in the area knows the place as Els Metges.
The explanation lies in the religious tradition of the church and in the presence of Saint Cosmas and Saint Damian, traditionally known as the physician saints.
According to Christian tradition, these brothers were physicians who cared for the sick without asking for payment.
Their devotion spread throughout Mediterranean Europe, and their association with the church eventually gave rise to the popular name Els Metges, meaning “The Doctors”.
Their presence gives this small sanctuary a particularly human dimension.
They do not simply represent religious devotion.
They also embody an enduring idea:
to care, to heal and to protect.
Perhaps that is why their presence feels so appropriate in this quiet sanctuary surrounded by forest.
The Romanesque Church
A small medieval jewel in the heart of Les Gavarres
The Church of Sant Cebrià de Lledó retains an important Romanesque structure dating back to the 11th century.
Its exposed stone masonry walls express the simplicity and strength of medieval rural architecture.
The building was later modified over the centuries, meaning that the present church brings together architectural elements from different periods.
But perhaps the most remarkable thing is not simply its architecture.
It is the feeling of entering.
Outside there is forest.
Inside, the light becomes softer.
The old stone holds the coolness.
Silence becomes deeper.
And the small religious figures seem to acquire a special presence.
The Altar of the Physician Saints
Saint Cosmas, Saint Damian and the Virgin Mary
Inside the church, a simple stone altar is crowned by several small religious images.
Among them are Saint Cosmas and Saint Damian, the physician saints, accompanied by a central figure of the Virgin Mary.
The composition is simple, yet deeply evocative.
On either side, the two brothers associated with healing and medicine.
At the centre, the Virgin.
Together they create a powerful symbol of faith, protection and care.
The presence of the Virgin adds a maternal and serene dimension, while Saints Cosmas and Damian represent healing and compassion.
Inside such a modest church, these figures acquire an extraordinary sense of intimacy.
There is no grandeur.
No excessive ornamentation.
Only stone, silence, faith and memory.
A sentence to remember
Among the Romanesque stone walls, Saints Cosmas and Damian seem to continue watching over those who reach Els Metges, while the Virgin, serene at the centre of the altar, quietly protects this little sanctuary hidden among the forests of Les Gavarres.
The Aplec dels Metges
Faith, music and community
The devotion to Saints Cosmas and Damian also gave rise to the Aplec dels Metges, a traditional gathering associated with the church and the surrounding area.
For generations, people arrived from both sides of Les Gavarres to meet, celebrate and share traditions.
This made Els Metges more than a place of worship.
It became a meeting point.
The mountain brought people together.
The church provided the spiritual centre.
And the celebration strengthened a shared regional identity.
It is a beautiful example of how, in rural Catalonia, religion, landscape and community life were once deeply intertwined.
Les Gavarres
The great Mediterranean forest of the Empordà
Sant Cebrià de Lledó cannot be understood without understanding Les Gavarres.
The massif stretches between the Baix Empordà and Gironès and forms one of the great Mediterranean woodland landscapes of coastal Catalonia.
The protected area covers more than 28,000 hectares, preserving remarkable natural and cultural heritage.
Its forests are dominated by holm oaks, cork oaks and pine trees, together with many other Mediterranean species.
The cork oak has particular importance here because cork harvesting was historically one of the region’s key forest activities.
But Les Gavarres are much more than woodland.
Hidden within them are:
- Medieval churches.
- Dolmens and standing stones.
- Traditional farmhouses.
- Lime kilns.
- Old paths.
- Ice wells.
- Mills.
- Former charcoal-making sites.
The massif is therefore not simply a natural environment.
It is a cultural landscape shaped by generations of human life.
A Landscape Made of Nature and Memory
For centuries, the people who lived here made use of everything the mountain provided.
They cultivated the land.
Raised animals.
Worked cork.
Produced charcoal.
Built stone walls and paths.
And gradually shaped the landscape while remaining dependent upon it.
Today, when we walk through Les Gavarres, we can still discover traces of that former life.
The forest has reclaimed many of those spaces.
But the memory remains.
In a stone.
In a wall.
In an abandoned farmhouse.
In a path.
In a church.
The Climate
Mediterranean, with a mountain character
Sant Cebrià de Lledó enjoys a distinctive Mediterranean mountain climate.
Its elevation and position within the massif create conditions different from those of the nearby coast.
Spring
The woodland becomes intensely green again and wildflowers appear throughout the landscape.
Summer
Days can be warm, particularly around midday, but the forest offers welcome shade. Early mornings are especially pleasant for walking.
Autumn
One of the most atmospheric seasons.
Moisture changes the scent of the woodland, while golden and earthy tones transform the landscape.
Winter
Temperatures can be cold, particularly early in the morning, but clear days offer exceptional visibility across the Empordà.
Reaching Sant Cebrià de Lledó
The road is part of the experience
Reaching Sant Cebrià de Lledó is not simply a matter of following a conventional road.
It means entering Les Gavarres.
One of the usual approaches comes from the Cassà de la Selva area, followed by forest tracks.
Once the asphalt disappears, the landscape changes completely.
Country roads replace conventional streets.
Cork oaks appear.
Holm oaks.
Pines.
Curves.
Silence.
Depending on the exact starting point and the condition of the track, allow approximately 20–30 minutes of driving on forest roads to reach Els Metges.
This final stretch should not be considered an inconvenience.
It is part of the adventure.
Drive carefully and check the condition of the tracks before setting out, particularly after heavy rainfall.
Some alternative approaches may be considerably more difficult for conventional vehicles.
The final stretch
We leave the everyday world behind and slowly climb through the forests of Les Gavarres until, after several bends, the old church finally appears among the trees.
At that moment, the journey suddenly feels worthwhile.
Can Cama
An old farmhouse beside the church
Next to the church stands Can Cama, an old farmhouse that forms an essential part of the Els Metges setting.
Its presence preserves the rural character of the place and reminds us that this was never simply a religious site.
People lived here.
Families.
Animals.
Work.
Fields.
Celebrations.
And generations who made their lives in these mountains.
The Great Hackberry Tree
A place to stop and breathe
In front of Can Cama stands a large hackberry tree, known in Catalan as a lledoner.
Its presence adds something almost timeless to the square.
Church.
Farmhouse.
Tree.
Forest.
Everything seems to belong to the same scene.
It is the perfect place to pause after a walk.
Sit down.
Breathe.
Listen to the forest.
And simply allow time to pass.
Restaurant Els Metges
Gastronomy in the middle of the mountains
Beside Can Cama we find Restaurant Els Metges, closely connected with the rural setting of the site.
The experience begins long before taking a seat.
It begins with the journey.
Then the forest.
The church.
The views.
The mountain air.
And finally, the meal.
The restaurant is associated with a traditional, home-style approach to cooking, particularly appropriate after exploring Les Gavarres.
Here, eating becomes part of the journey itself.
Mountain, local character, tradition and time.
As with any rural destination, it is advisable to check opening hours and availability before setting out.
The Gastronomy of Les Gavarres
Flavours of forest, farmhouse and territory
The cuisine of this area shares many characteristics with the traditional rural gastronomy of the Empordà.
Simple ingredients.
Seasonal cooking.
Slow preparations.
Meat.
Cured products.
Mushrooms.
Vegetables.
Legumes.
Bread.
Forest produce.
In autumn, wild mushrooms become particularly important.
In winter, slow-cooked dishes make perfect sense.
This is not food designed to impress through complexity.
It seeks something else:
flavour, memory and a sense of place.
The Views Across the Empordà
The reward at the end of the journey
Els Metges sits high enough to offer broad views across the Empordà landscape.
On clear days, the horizon opens towards the plains and, from certain points, it is possible to identify coastal and regional landmarks depending on visibility.
This is one of those places where it is worth stopping.
Not simply to take a photograph.
But to look.
Because the landscape itself tells the story of the region.
The mountain.
The fields.
The villages.
The distant sea.
Everything belongs to the same territory.
An Experience for All the Senses
Sant Cebrià de Lledó is not discovered through sight alone.
You hear it in the wind moving through the trees.
You smell the earth after rain.
You feel the old stone.
You taste the mountain cuisine.
And you remember the silence.
It is an ideal destination for those seeking something different, far from crowded tourist routes.
Here we can walk.
Discover.
Eat.
Contemplate.
And simply slow down.
Sant Cebrià de Lledó with Magic Dreams Barcelona
A private escape into the heart of Les Gavarres
At Magic Dreams Barcelona, we can transform a visit to Els Metges into a private experience designed around your interests.
We can combine:
nature + history + heritage + gastronomy + wellbeing.
A walk through the forest.
A visit to the Romanesque church.
The story of Saints Cosmas and Damian.
The altar and the Virgin.
The landscapes of Les Gavarres.
A traditional meal around Can Cama.
And time to enjoy the surroundings without rushing.
We can also arrange private transport and specialist guidance focused on history, botany and nature, creating a fully personalised day.
We do not simply want to show you a place.
We want you to experience it.
The Soul of Els Metges
Some places impress through their size.
Els Metges does the opposite.
It impresses through its intimacy.
Its silence.
Its sense of discovery.
A Romanesque church.
Two physician saints.
A Virgin.
An old farmhouse.
A great hackberry tree.
A rural restaurant.
An endless Mediterranean forest.
And the Empordà stretching out before us.
Everything seems simple.
And that is precisely where its beauty lies.
One Last Look
When it is time to leave, we return to the forest track.
The trees surround us again.
The church slowly disappears behind the branches.
And the sounds of everyday life begin to return.
But something remains.
The old stone.
The silence.
The light between the cork oaks.
The shade of the hackberry tree.
And that small church where Saint Cosmas and Saint Damian, beside the Virgin, seem to continue protecting this quiet corner of Les Gavarres.
Because there are places we simply visit.
And there are places we truly discover.
Sant Cebrià de Lledó belongs to the latter.
A place to reach slowly, stay a little longer and remember for a very long time.
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